Review - E-Zip trailz electric bicycle - Page 12

DrkAngel · #**221** (**permalink**) 09-03-2008, 12:24 AM

I purchased my first E-Zip mountain bike 3 months ago from Walmart.com, $349 plus tax, shipping included, to local store. 1/2 to 1/4 the price of anything else I could find.

I loved it, used it as an electric bike, used motor only, cruised at 16 - 18 mph on dozens of 3 - 4 mile trips. I allways recharged after every trip. 2 hour charge time, with supplied charger. I purchased the optional 4amp charger and reduced recharge time to 1 hour. After 3 months, 2 -3 trips each day, battery capacity has finally degraded enough to make it an "electric assist" bicycle, I have to pedal some to maintain the same speed. Batteries are easily replacable just haven't felt the need yet. OEM battery pack is pricey at $120, plus shipping, from California.

A few pointers.

1. Sharp edges on the left hand shifting control. Skinned my thumb nuckle. File or sand all sharp edges, emery board works well.

2. Inflate tires to maximum pressure, it arrived with minimum inflation. Higher pressure gives much better speed & distance.

3. Fully charge battery pack. The bike uses "Sealed Lead Acid" battery. This type battery is permanetly damaged, (capacity reduced), by deeply discharging, and by leaving in a discharged state. Use pedal more if speed decreases noticably. Charge often and immediatly after each use.

4. Keep an eye on the brakes, keep them adjusted up and check for wear. Slowing down from 18mph at every stop sign etc. takes its toll.

Thing they don't tell you!

1. The motor is regulated to 18mph. Faster than 18mph it is all you pedaling, no motor assist, the motor turns but at a speed slower than the wheel.

2. The front brake disengages the electric motor. I found out the hard way, hopped off the bike at a crosswalk and released the left brake, the bike jumped forward, dragging me, because the throttle was partially engaged by my right hand.

3. The ON\OFF switch next to the throttle is not "non-functional" as some have claimed. This switch produces different modes. "ON" is electric bike, full all-time electric power. "OFF" is electric-assist bike, electric power only when pedaling, power assist begins 1 second after pedaling begins and continues 3 seconds after pedaling ends, recommended mode for all but the most lazy. Both modes are regulated by the throttle.

4. The main power switch is located at the rear of the rack, it switches between left & right battery packs, center position is off. Also, there is an auto shut off, if unused the power disables, you have to turn it "off" then back "ON".

Problems:
1. The first problem I noticed was a sloppy kickstand, after a couple hundred uses it seemed loose. When I dissasembled it I saw that the detent pin was allmost worn through. A couple weeks later it wore completely through and "stand" was useless. Dissasembly is easy, highly recommend large "channellock" Pliers. Press in the bushing-ring around the kickstand, this will releave the tension holding the retention "pin" underneath the stand, if it doesn't drop out wiggle it out. The pin retains a spring & washer, if still in good shape, lubricate with heavy wheel bearing grease, if bad, drive out pin using nail set or heavy nail. I found a tight replacement pin at local hardware store 3/4" x 3/16" approx. Cutting a 16D common nail should also work.

2. The battery "rack" loosens up. Next time you're at the hardware store buy a small handfull of 1/4" "split" lock washers, 2 cents each. Anything that loosens up add one of these and retighten.

3. The chain has de-linked 3 times, under "loaded" radical shifting, one side of a link has seperated, pressed back together with pliers.

Will try to keep everyone updated.

DrkAngel
;<}

pgringo · #**222** (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dallasfoto

Hey Rodx...I just got mine this summer, as well. I was able to get the men's online. Didn't know you could take off the decals. Where did you get that neat looking bag on the back? Looks like a good fit.

hey man, just an fyi...you have your forks setup backwards. if you turn them around, the bike will feel less like it wants to turn all the time.

Richie · #**223** (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pgringo

hey man, just an fyi...you have your forks setup backwards. if you turn them around, the bike will feel less like it wants to turn all the time.

Nice catch PGRingo

This is the third time I've seen this. I'm sure it's the same guy at the factory assembling the forks backwards.

fulltlt · #**224** (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Richie

Nice catch PGRingo

This is the third time I've seen this. I'm sure it's the same guy at the factory assembling the forks backwards.

I don't think it has anything to do with the factory. The handle bars are installed by the end user. Which way the handle bars are installed determines whether or not the forks will be forwards or backwards.

Richie · #**225** (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fulltlt

I don't think it has anything to do with the factory. The handle bars are installed by the end user. Which way the handle bars are installed determines whether or not the forks will be forwards or backwards.

Hi Fulltlt,

It's been a while since I assembled my bike. So you're saying the forks have no actual "stop" on them, so they can be turned 360 degrees if the handlebars were not attached?

If so, than I'd have to agree with you it's the end user's mistake and not the factory.

julesagogo · #**226** (**permalink**) 10-05-2008, 01:14 PM

Review Guy - @ 1:09 of your cooling mod video, you mention how to get the magnets back in, but where and how does the washer go? The best way to describe mine is "fluted." If you lay it down, it's curved up on two sides (let's say E and W) then down on the other two sides (N and S). I'm confused as to where this came from and how to get it back, or can I leave it out?

DrkAngel · #**227** (**permalink**) 12-08-2008, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rodalan

hi.

I have read lots of other forums about the Ezip and it seems the ones that overheat or burn out motor are not in the states with the 24v /450 watt motor, other countries are limited the 200 or 250 watt motor maybe thats the reason. With a 36v 10 ah battery installed it should only be 360 watts going to the 450 watt motor, does that make sense im new and just guessing

The E-Zip 450 watt motor is a measure of power output! 750 watt = 1 horsepower. A 24 volt 450 watt motor run at 36 volt would have approximately a 675 watt power output, minus power lost through greater heat & friction due to higher voltage & speed.
Drkangel
;<}

Hulk311 · #**228** (**permalink**) 01-21-2009, 01:24 PM

I have several questions:

1) Are the stock batteries used one at a time or both at the same time?

2) The walmart ad states that the bike will go 15 miles, is this on one or both batteries?

3) When charging the batteries, are both batteries being charged at once or do you need to charge one battery for 8 hours and then the other one as well?

4) Now, most important question...where can I buy the lifepo4 36v 10ah battery?

I checked ebay and this is all I found (the battery looks much different from the ones posted in this thread).

36V 10AH LIFEPO4 BATTERY electric bicycle BIKE scooter - eBay (item 130274124025 end time Feb-04-09 09:20:53 PST)

dallasfoto · #**229** (**permalink**) 03-11-2009, 12:31 PM

Well I gotta say this is the best $350 I've ever spent. I've been commuting every day, M-F, for 8 months. I've had no issues whatsoever. Even in pouring rain, if I cover the throttle with a large ziploc baggie, the bike just goes. I have been riding every morning in the dark with two blinking lights on my helmet, a flourescent green yellow safety vest, reflector arm bands, and a blinker and headlight. And still the drivers act like they don't see me. Oh well. A neighbor who's a cyclist told me he couldn't keep up with me on the flats. This bike is a great value. I'd like to go faster but it's really great for my daily commute.

For those of you who said my forks are backwards, I tried to reverse them and something is seriously wrong here. They seem to work fine as shown.

DrkAngel · #**230** (**permalink**) 05-18-2010, 12:54 AM

E-Zip "Trailz" VS "Mountain Trailz" EZIP

I would rate the E-Zip Trailz & Mountain Trailz as both being excellent "starter" Ebikes. Though not being anywhere near "top quality", at $300 to $400, they cost between 1/2 to 1/5 the price of typical ebikes. At the very least, owning one will help you decide precisely the features and quality of bike that is ideal for you and your budget.

Common features:

450w motor approximately 6/10 horsepower.

10ah SLA battery - rated at 15 mile range - obtainable only with constant pedaling and partial throttle. 5 to 10 miles more realistic estimate, dependent on tire pressure, terrain and weight of rider. Will accept 2nd battery for double range.

Top speed 16 to 17 mph. Motor is speed regulated to 18mph, beyond that it is all you pedaling. Regulated below 20mph to comply with Federal "definition" of "bicycle".

Two modes: (PAS) Pedal Assist System = motor will not engage unless pedal are used. (TAG) Twist And Go = motor engages with throttle.

Differences: Trailz vs Mountain Trailz

(Shipping) Weight - 81 lbs vs 75 lbs
Color - Black & Chrome vs Blue & Black
Seat - Rear spring vs full shock absorber
Tires - Smooth balloon "street"* vs heavy off-road tread
*note: Trailz tires not recommended for anything but clean, dry streets.*

More E-Zip info:

http://www.ecoforumz.com/electric-bi...le-update.html

http://www.ecoforumz.com/electric-bi...date-ezip.html

... ;<}

Ezippernate · #**231** (**permalink**) 10-14-2010, 12:04 PM

Hey. New to the forum. I have an ezip, the gray version with the smooth tires. I voted it 4/5. It's mostly built quite well, but the first gear is still rather high and getting up steep hills without the motor is impossible on the first gear alone. Also, lack of any kind of shock absorption in the rear part of the bike causes for A lot of very bad things, such as bending of wheel rip and bruises on rider's rear quarters..

go4it · #**232** (**permalink**) 10-14-2010, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ezippernate

Hey. New to the forum. I have an ezip, the gray version with the smooth tires. I voted it 4/5. It's mostly built quite well, but the first gear is still rather high and getting up steep hills without the motor is impossible on the first gear alone. Also, lack of any kind of shock absorption in the rear part of the bike causes for A lot of very bad things, such as bending of wheel rip and bruises on rider's rear quarters..

Yeah, your right about it being hard on the butt. But that's why it's called a hardtail bike because it has no rear suspension. I had a cheap $15 suspension post from ebay so I put in on my EZip this spring. The biggest problem with suspension posts is they need to be set higher then normal because they are going to settle an inch or more when you set your butt. This makes a small proble when stopping at lights and so on. They also tend to pivet back and forth a little while your riding.

I ordered a Cane Creek Thunderbuster TL and it arrived today. I picked it up new for 80 bucks on Amozon (sorry I think it was the last one). I'll let ya know how it works out. I'm expecting it to be a big improvement.

Thomas · #**233** (**permalink**) 11-30-2010, 11:13 PM

Not worried it may burn up the motor ?

bestseoteam · #**234** (**permalink**) 12-01-2010, 12:13 AM

hi.

I have read lots of other forums about the Ezip and it seems the ones that overheat or burn out motor are not in the states with the 24v /450 watt motor, other countries are limited the 200 or 250 watt motor maybe thats the reason. With a 36v 10 ah battery installed it should only be 360 watts going to the 450 watt motor, does that make sense im new and just guessing

DrkAngel · #**235** (**permalink**) 12-01-2010, 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bestseoteam

hi.

I have read lots of other forums about the Ezip and it seems the ones that overheat or burn out motor are not in the states with the 24v /450 watt motor, other countries are limited the 200 or 250 watt motor maybe thats the reason. With a 36v 10 ah battery installed it should only be 360 watts going to the 450 watt motor, does that make sense im new and just guessing

Typically, the danger of overheat is from full throttle at lower speed, such as might occur on a hill, or long upgrade. Any wattage motor can overheat, but a lower wattage one will be much more likely to be used full throttle at lower speed, it cannot accelerate. Even tho it it uses less electricity it is likely to spend much more time "suffering along", even on a slight upgrade. Personally, even though I have run multiple EZips overclocked to 36v for 7,000 miles, I've never suffered any overheat problems. Probably because, I always pedal assist when getting "up to speed" and on hills. Also, I accelerate before a hill and pedal hard to maintain efficient speed, if my speed drops, I do reduce throttle.

The EZip motor seems to be most efficient at the 50 - 75% of top speed range. Full throttle, at slower speeds, it will use much more power BUT, most of that power is not used to turn the motor, it is turned into damaging heat! High speed - full throttle, power usage is much less! On a stock EZip (16mph), most efficient power is obtained between 8-12mph, optimal hill climbing range! Strangely, this "range" seems to change with throttle position! Most noticeable was on a 36v upgrade. 12-18mph seemed optimal, but when I dropped below 12v, a 2/3 throttle produced a better power to heat ratio. I determined 2/3 throttle with a voltage meter, which indicated when the throttle was supplying 24v! OMG! You can use a volt meter to determine optimal speed, (in conjunction with a speedometer).
4-6 mph = 12v
8-12mph = 24v
12-18mph = 36v
etc.

If you upgrade to 36v you can run as a 24v simply by limiting throttle to 24v output, with set screw, or other method, (heavy spring engaging at 24v point, sounds very interesting!). You will gain 50% range increase!

Second point. 450w motor does not use 450w. The "watt rating" is the usable output. At somewhere between 50-75% throttle the EZip motor is using 600 watts to produce 450w. Brush motors are somewhere between 60 & 80% efficient. Full throttle at low speed might be using 1000w to produce 100w of power and 900w of heat, at top speed possibly using 200w - 100w power and 100w heat (tho at high speed heat is more a result of friction than electricity)

450 watt motor @ 24v puts out 450w of usable power
450 watt motor @ 36v puts out 675w of usable power( some loss due to greater friction)
450 watt motor @ 48v puts out "too much heat" and will burn up! ... Unless ...

The theory is that, as long as the heat production is kept down, the motor will perform properly, without "burning up".

Well, first you will need a 48v capable controller-throttle.
You can get a LCD handheld voltmeter, from China (on ebay) for $5 each, and attach it to the motor side electric. Bike computer w/speedometer too. A 20 amp ammeter, (amp meter), might actually perform much more effectively!

24v - Full throttle, at 0-2mph, might produce 100w of power & 900w of heat, (Would burn up quickly). This is the point where maximum power usage is obtained. (where the limit of the 40amp fuse is neared, the only mode that was able to, consistently, "blow a 30amp replacement fuse"). Full throttle maintaining 16mph uses about 7amps.

48v - The throttle can be regulated to supply a "non-damaging" amperage by regulating the voltage. Start with a 6v to 12v supply slowly increasing throttle till 24v is attained at 12mph, to 36v at 18mph and finally 48v at 24mph. At 48 volts, 18-24mph would be the maximum efficiency area, you might be able to sustain 24mph for less than 10amps. Full throttle at 24mph-48v will produce a larger draw, possibly 20+ amps, but as it accelerates the amp draw will steadily decrease till it attains its terminal velocity.
48v "terminal velocity" should surpass 30mph!

Amps "drawn" (ammeter) would be a much easier way to, regulate - monitor, power consumption & efficiency. Simply turn throttle to maintain 5amp till top speed is reached, then try 10amp, then 15amp, then 20amp. 15amps, at 48v, should be safe, for fairly extended periods! ... ?

Amps/rpm should measure efficiency.

Sorry! No, I have not produced a working example, But all the principles are "sound" and will, at the very least, help prevent the most common failures, as reported by others.

Please remember that this "theory" is only a theory, based on scientific education, coupled with experience & experimentation ... but still, unproven!
Use caution, monitor motor temperature after, at first, brief, then longer intervals, etc.

48v:
Full throttle, from a dead start, will very quickly "burn up" your motor!
I wouldn't recommend "full throttle" below 15 mph, even briefly.
Heavy throttle should be reserved for above 20 mph!

Good luck! & Enjoy!

chuckklr98 · #**236** (**permalink**) 11-26-2011, 07:12 AM

I'm having a problem with the motor engaging while the throttle is closed and not being touched. Turn on the battery switch and away she goes!. Seems to mainly be doing this with a fresh battery. Fix for now is to make sure its on pas when turned on.

Motor controller or throttle?

go4it · #**237** (**permalink**) 11-26-2011, 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckklr98

I'm having a problem with the motor engaging while the throttle is closed and not being touched. Turn on the battery switch and away she goes!. Seems to mainly be doing this with a fresh battery. Fix for now is to make sure its on pas when turned on.

Motor controller or throttle?

I am assuming your saying you and not even on the bike when this happens. Correct? If so there's only 2 things that can cause this problem 1) a bad throttle that is not returning to zero and 2) a bad controller. If you own a meter you can check the voltage return on the throttle to see if it is returning to zero or not. If it is working correctly I'd say it's the controller. A long while back I received a brand new controller from Currie that had a problem that it would never completely stop the motor. Cepending on the age of the bike you should be able to call Currie and ask for the new parts. With a little sweet talking they will likely send you both a throttle and a controller. But even if you are out of warenty I would still call them. They work off a "hit" list for problem solving. So after you tell them what is wrong they will tell you the most likely problem. I would first do a little online window shopping so you know the price of a controller and throttle. If you feel the cost from Currie is to high you can just say "thank you, but I think I'll wait on my order". Then go where you want for the part.

BTW, while you may feel it happens more with a full charged battery it is likely the same with a low pack too. But with the added power the problem is just increased due to more current available.

Bob

chuckklr98 · #**238** (**permalink**) 11-26-2011, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by go4it

I am assuming your saying you and not even on the bike when this happens. Correct? If so there's only 2 things that can cause this problem 1) a bad throttle that is not returning to zero and 2) a bad controller. If you own a meter you can check the voltage return on the throttle to see if it is returning to zero or not. If it is working correctly I'd say it's the controller. A long while back I received a brand new controller from Currie that had a problem that it would never completely stop the motor. Cepending on the age of the bike you should be able to call Currie and ask for the new parts. With a little sweet talking they will likely send you both a throttle and a controller. But even if you are out of warenty I would still call them. They work off a "hit" list for problem solving. So after you tell them what is wrong they will tell you the most likely problem. I would first do a little online window shopping so you know the price of a controller and throttle. If you feel the cost from Currie is to high you can just say "thank you, but I think I'll wait on my order". Then go where you want for the part.

BTW, while you may feel it happens more with a full charged battery it is likely the same with a low pack too. But with the added power the problem is just increased due to more current available.

Bob

Yep, hands no where near the throttle.

Will check to see if it's not closing all the way. Feels like it is. Moves back real snappy.

chuckklr98 · #**239** (**permalink**) 11-27-2011, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckklr98

Yep, hands no where near the throttle.

Will check to see if it's not closing all the way. Feels like it is. Moves back real snappy.

It's the throttle. If I move it just a hair backward it turns off.

go4it · #**240** (**permalink**) 11-28-2011, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckklr98

It's the throttle. If I move it just a hair backward it turns off.

OK, as you know the throttle is spring loaded to close it automaticly. You can likely do a very quick fix to your problem. Between the end of the throttle and the hand grip there should be a thin plastic ring. This is to help the throttle porsion of the grip to slid freely on the outter part of the grip. If the plastic is missing you will need t oget one. If it is there you will need to adjust the location of the throttle on the handle bar. There is a small METRIC set screw on the area of the throttle under the battery lights. Loosen this screw and move the throttle over. Be sure the outter hand grip is pushed on the bar as far as possible. Leave a 1/32 to 1/16" space between the 2 grips and retighten the throttle set screw. You should be good to go with no sticking. Of course you can always just slide the outter hand grip off a little but I don't recommend this because it will move right back again.

Bob