20mph+ from EZIP 24 volt OEM pack! - Page 2

DrkAngel · #21 (**permalink**) 10-21-2009, 02:11 AM

Just recovering from the "cold snap". The cold seems to affect the Li-ion batteries, reduced speed & power. Still I just made a 30+ mile run with my 31.2ah "home made" battery pack, averaging 20+ mph. http://www.ecoforumz.com/electric-bi...tery-ezip.html

The cold snap also caused the trees to start shedding their leaves in earnest, my blacktop "trail" turned into a colorful carpet, pretty, but, sometimes, tough to follow. I am getting older, I got a little confused, when, at a curvy part of the trail, there was an abrupt dead end. ... !!! Took a few seconds, ... before I noted that a large Maple branch had fallen across the trail. The only way to get by, was under the branch, well to the side, in the soft, muddy, ground. Couldn't let nature mess up my ridin', so I went home, dug up my "bow" saw, posted "back in an hour" sign on my store, and headed to work. Cutting through 8" maple takes a little time so I acquired some spectators, mostly cute little collage girls. With, all the cutting, trimming, dragging, and finally rolling, the whole cleanup took almost the full hour. No ... I wouldn't let the girls help, "This is my project!"

Afraid I'll have to hang up my Trailz, for this year. The tires just don't have the right tread for running around on leaves, or, even worse, wet leaves. Not to mention poor wet traction, and finally, the inevitable, snow & ice. Don't fear, I've a pair of Mountain Trailz, and I did pick up 1 studded tire. It has to go on the front, ... of course, ... unless, ... I could rig a pair of short skis to the front fork! ... ???

dsandhu02 · #22 (**permalink**) 10-31-2009, 11:05 AM

Hi Dark Angel, i've been reading your forum and I have to say thanks for posting your failures/successes. I have an Ezip trailz, is there a battery I can buy that will work with the current configuration of the motor that will increase my speed without changing the motor? LIke a higher voltage battery, but I don't want it to burn out the motor? What do you think? Also, I'm thinking of riding it out in the snow, I know it's probably not recommended but is it doable?

THanks

DrkAngel · #23 (**permalink**) 11-01-2009, 06:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsandhu02

Hi Dark Angel, i've been reading your forum and I have to say thanks for posting your failures/successes. I have an Ezip trailz, is there a battery I can buy that will work with the current configuration of the motor that will increase my speed without changing the motor? LIke a higher voltage battery, but I don't want it to burn out the motor? What do you think? Also, I'm thinking of riding it out in the snow, I know it's probably not recommended but is it doable?

THanks

beachwalker556 · #24 (**permalink**) 11-01-2009, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrkAngel

Cutting through 8" maple takes a little time so I acquired some spectators, mostly cute little collage girls.

Collage girls??? Were they all cut up and pasty?

DrkAngel · #25 (**permalink**) 11-01-2009, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beachwalker556

Collage girls??? Were they all cut up and pasty?

Pretty normal really, ... more like, Picasso's rendering of Collage girls. ...

atx · #26 (**permalink**) 11-17-2009, 04:45 AM

i did this mod over the weekend and it has been great for 50 miles or so. it cuts out just over 22mph where as it was 18 before. 22 is about the perfect speed for me to pedal comfortably with the gearing the way it is, so it works well. maybe when 22 is too easy i'll look into swapping out the ring gear an modding the motor speed again somehow... i didnt want to reuse my stock freewheel so i clamped the very edge of it in a vise just enough until the bearings froze up, then spun it off using leverage of the rim itself. i had to hammer the thing a bit to get it tight enough, but it worked well. hammer a bit, check if the bearings were siezed, rinse and repeat until they are. my worry with the grinder was nicking something, though i was extra careful with this method so i wouldnt ruin the hub...

i did notice that i somehow bent my rear axle already though, i don't even take it off road or even hop off curbs at all. any recommendations on high quality axels?

DrkAngel · #27 (**permalink**) 11-17-2009, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by atx

i did this mod over the weekend...

Just curious, did you grind the freewheel tabs or add the washer? I've used both methods and the washer seems much simpler, with no adverse effects.

I've hung up my Trailz for the winter, totaled about 400 miles with my 16T freewheel mod. No problems, 32ah Li-ion battery sure helped pile the miles on.

atx · #28 (**permalink**) 11-18-2009, 02:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrkAngel

Just curious, did you grind the freewheel tabs or add the washer? I've used both methods and the washer seems much simpler, with no adverse effects.

i ground the tabs off. will make it a huge pain to get it off if i decide to, but i don't think the thing will be breaking any time soon. clearance was pretty close or i might have gone the washer route. honestly grinding them off didn't even take 5 minutes.

one thing i would like is a weatherproof throttle on/off switch. i almost never use my throttle at anything but wide open anyways. it would be nice to be able to flip a switch cruise control style, maybe even wrap the throttle with saran/plastic wrap if rain is in the forecast.

go4it · #29 (**permalink**) 11-18-2009, 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by atx

i ground the tabs off. will make it a huge pain to get it off if i decide to, but i don't think the thing will be breaking any time soon. clearance was pretty close or i might have gone the washer route. honestly grinding them off didn't even take 5 minutes.

one thing i would like is a weatherproof throttle on/off switch. i almost never use my throttle at anything but wide open anyways. it would be nice to be able to flip a switch cruise control style, maybe even wrap the throttle with saran/plastic wrap if rain is in the forecast.

What I did doesn't give you a weather proof throttle but it does sort of give you a cheap mans cruise control. I wanted to change to a softer set of handle grips so I bought a set of standard long soft grips at Wallie World and cut to size as needed. there is a plastic ring bushing that fits into the end of the throttle. While I was changing the grips I removed this bushinf and if you push the grip up tight to the throttle is causes it to stay in any position you put it. This is great for those long rides when you wrist in getting tired. Of course if you hit your front break it didconnects the motor. When you let off the break the motor starts up again from zero to the original set point.

DrkAngel · #30 (**permalink**) 12-14-2009, 05:48 AM

December 14 2009
ACS Southpaw 16T x 1/2" x 1/8" Left hand freewheel, 2 sources, under $20.
Both sources offer substantial shipping discounts for multiple items!

NEW ACS SOUTHPAW FAT 1/2X 1/8 16T LEFT SIDE FREEWHEEL - eBay (item 160364652263 end time Dec-23-09 18:00:13 PST)

ACS SOUTHPAW LEFT SIDE DRIVE BMX FREEWHEEL 16T NEW - eBay (item 330366501157 end time Jan-06-10 07

32 PST)

Freewheel replacement procedure.
http://www.ecoforumz.com/electric-bi...tml#post113327

railfanner · #31 (**permalink**) 01-06-2010, 03:51 PM

Hi Drk,
I'm working on my own mod, and was curious if you knew the max voltage the "new" style controller will allow. With a 25.9v Li-ion, you're quite a bit above that when freshly charged, aren't you? Yet i read somewhere that the controller will not take a 30v and work. Just wondering if anyone knows what the magic threshold V is...?

DrkAngel · #32 (**permalink**) 01-06-2010, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by railfanner

Hi Drk,
I'm working on my own mod, and was curious if you knew the max voltage the "new" style controller will allow. With a 25.9v Li-ion, you're quite a bit above that when freshly charged, aren't you? Yet i read somewhere that the controller will not take a 30v and work. Just wondering if anyone knows what the magic threshold V is...?

SLA 24v battery has charged voltage of almost 27v. 7 cell Li-ion - 25.9v charges to 29.4v. I know 8 cell Li-ion - 29.6v which charges to 33.6v, exceeds capability.

I believe that the "rated" voltage, E.G. 24v, full 27v - empty 21v, is either, the average output voltage (voltage at half discharged) or, the battery output "under load", moderate load, I would assume.

guppeeh · #33 (**permalink**) 01-11-2010, 08:28 AM

Yes, I was quite disappointed that the controller for my newer 2009 Mountain Trailz didn't like the 3x12v serially-wired SLAs. Luckily, I got in on the Amazon old-school Trailz, which happily flicked on on 36v juice. Did my first ride this morning at 22 degrees and according to my Garmin bike GPS, I peaked at 23mph. At that speed, I'm not sure how much my legs are actually contributing =)

After my freewheel upgrade, I'm hoping to get an additional 3mph. But without the SPA-1 tool, I have been unable to remove the original freewheel. I guess I should cough up the $10 or mount one of those vice grips on my work bench. I hate to completely destroy the freewheel on removal, even though it has considerable more spinning resistance than the South Paw.

Anyone tried other methods of removing the freewheel?

Also, Big Thank You DrkAngel

for your suggestions on the 36v mod and freewheel upgrade! Your posts is the only reason I am endeavoring on these mods. Otherwise, I'd have no clue. I'll post up photos and details soon!

GTR2EBIKE · #34 (**permalink**) 01-23-2010, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrkAngel

Standard speed = 16mph.
36v upgrade - + 50% = 23-24mph.
16T freewheel upgrade - + 25% = 20mph.
Combined = Near to 30mph.

Final problem ... Pedal speed limited to, 20 mph sustainable, 25mph - sprint.

"High" gear is 14T, I found a freewheel replacement. 11-32T = 2 speeds higher than the stock gears.

11T would be sustainable 25.45mph, sprint 31.81mph!

30mph might not be obtainable by motor alone, not enough torque, but pedal assist should make it possible.

http://www.ecoforumz.com/electric-bi...tml#post134328

I just tried the 36V mod on mine and it doesnt work. I already did your 16T mod and I was really hoping it would work. Now I'm basically back to stage one, How would you recommend I get this thing to take 36V?

DrkAngel · #35 (**permalink**) 01-23-2010, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guppeeh

Also, Big Thank You DrkAngel

for your suggestions on the 36v mod and freewheel upgrade! Your posts is the only reason I am endeavoring on these mods. Otherwise, I'd have no clue. I'll post up photos and details soon!

Standard speed = 16mph.
36v upgrade - + 50% = 23-24mph.
16T freewheel upgrade - + 25% = 20mph.
Combined = Near to 30mph.

Final problem ... Pedal speed limited to, 20 mph sustainable, 25mph - sprint.

"High" gear is 14T, I found a freewheel replacement. 11-32T = 2 speeds higher than the stock gears.

11T would be sustainable 25.45mph, sprint 31.81mph!

Wind resistance becomes a major factor above 20mph. 30mph might not be obtainable by motor alone, not enough torque. Pedal assist should make it possible.

http://www.ecoforumz.com/electric-bi...tml#post134328

guppeeh · #36 (**permalink**) 01-25-2010, 09:19 PM

I am having a hell of a time taking off the old freewheel. I followed DA's directions exactly...the problem is that, on my stock freewheel, the circular plate with the notches for the SPA1 actually rotates freely from the center cylinder, where the threads are. I was lulled into a false sense of accomplishment when the notched plate started spinning...but then it kept going and going.

I don't have a mounted vicegrip or a grinder. I do have a drill and some metal drill bits. Should I drill right into the hub to seize the freewheel and then screw on anchors thru the holes for leverage...then bend until I tear up?

I'm sooo close! Thanks.

guppeeh · #37 (**permalink**) 01-26-2010, 01:22 PM

OK, I just want to make sure I'm turning in the right direction to loosen...that would be clockwise, yah? I also don't know how the the notched part of the stock freewheel came free of the center hub. Cheap contruction perhaps.

Well, the freewheel is already pretty mangled up as it is now. I will drill thru the freewheel into the center of the hub and insert a metal rod to fix the inner ring to the outer plate, where the notches are. If that don't work, I'm picking myself up a table vice at Lowes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrkAngel

Take wheel to LBS, (Local Bike Shop), or garage, or machine shop. You must have slightly different model freewheel, I couldn't give any better advice without getting a good look.
LBS might not charge anything, if not successful, can't hurt to ask! ... ???
Warning! - Make sure they know that it is a Left hand thread! Also called LHS, (Left Hand Screw).

DrkAngel · #38 (**permalink**) 01-26-2010, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guppeeh

OK, I just want to make sure I'm turning in the right direction to loosen...that would be clockwise, yah? I also don't know how the the notched part of the stock freewheel came free of the center hub. Cheap contruction perhaps.

Well, the freewheel is already pretty mangled up as it is now. I will drill thru the freewheel into the center of the hub and insert a metal rod to fix the inner ring to the outer plate, where the notches are. If that don't work, I'm picking myself up a table vice at Lowes.

Careful inspection of my first freewheel removal, shows that the "pin-holed" "inner" "ring" is seperate from the center thread portion. Center "thread" portion , seems "formed" over inner ring.

Conclusion:
SPa-1 removal method should work easily for new, (unused), freewheel removal, but might not work on "used", motor tighten-rusted on, freewheel. At some point, the constant tightening of the motor will overwhelm the formed pressure holding the pin ring.

Notch, or vise, method, might be necessary!

guppeeh · #39 (**permalink**) 01-27-2010, 01:32 PM

Again total utter failure last night at removing this damn freewheel. I did take my dremel and grind my own notches and locked the inner ring with the rest of the freewheel with a flathead screwdriver.

However, even with the SPA1 locked in, I could not product enough torque to turn the freewheel. Hammering at the SPA1 only resulted in flying metal.

I'm convinced I need to do what another modder did: buy a helty vice and mount to a workbench. Clamp away at the flywheel. Twist the whole rim for leverage. Pray.

yes, I'm too stubborn to take this rim to a repair shop.

go4it · #40 (**permalink**) 01-27-2010, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guppeeh

Again total utter failure last night at removing this damn freewheel. I did take my dremel and grind my own notches and locked the inner ring with the rest of the freewheel with a flathead screwdriver.

However, even with the SPA1 locked in, I could not product enough torque to turn the freewheel. Hammering at the SPA1 only resulted in flying metal.

I'm convinced I need to do what another modder did: buy a helty vice and mount to a workbench. Clamp away at the flywheel. Twist the whole rim for leverage. Pray.

yes, I'm too stubborn to take this rim to a repair shop.

I've taken my share of freewheels off and a few were on rusty old hubs but I never had the problems your having. I'm sure you've been asked this before so no offence but you are sure your turning it as a left hand?

If you can post some pics maybe someone can offer a thought to help. The last one i took off of a kids bike I had to remove the bearing cap and dismantal it. The only thing left on the wheel was the threaded section. I clamped that into my vice and turned the wheel (just as your saying). But as I said I had the freewheel disassembled at that point. The total process only took me 10 minutes though. But those little balls rolling around the floor almost killed me.